Stories & guides
Journal
Notes from the valley — when to come, where to stay and what to eat when you get here.
Food & Culture · 4 min read
Kashmiri food: what to eat and where
Wazwan and its etiquette, kahwa and pink noon chai, the old city's bakeries at dawn, and the winter harissa — a guide to eating well in Kashmir.
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02 · Planning
What to pack for Kashmir, by season
Layers, the right shoes and a few things people always forget — a season-by-season packing list for the valley and the mountains above it.
5 October 2026 · 3 min
03 · Destinations
Gurez Valley: how to visit Kashmir's remote north
A summer-only valley on the Kishanganga, over the Razdan Pass — permits, the road, when to go and what to expect from Kashmir's most remarkable corner.
5 October 2026 · 3 min
04 · Destinations
Aru Valley: the quiet side of Pahalgam
Twelve kilometres beyond Pahalgam, Aru trades traffic and souvenir stalls for meadow, river and the trailheads to Kashmir's best long walks.
5 October 2026 · 3 min
05 · Planning
Kashmir in winter: what's open and what isn't
Seasonal closures are the most common Kashmir planning mistake. Place by place, what you can reach between December and March — and what you can't.
5 October 2026 · 3 min
06 · Stays
Dal Lake houseboats: how to choose one
No stay in Kashmir varies more in quality. Dal or Nigeen, front row or back, and the questions to ask before you book a houseboat.
5 October 2026 · 4 min
07 · Destinations
Gulmarg Gondola: tickets, timings and what to expect
The two stages, how to book, why the top stage closes, and what to wear — the practical detail for one of the highest cable cars in the world.
5 October 2026 · 4 min
08 · Planning
Best time to visit Kashmir: a month-by-month guide
Every month in the valley, honestly — what is open, what it feels like, and the few weeks we would steer you away from.
5 October 2026 · 5 min
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